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Topic ClosedPower Bimini Installation Tips & Tricks

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/28/2012 at 12:57pm
Ok pics of my wiring that works just dandy. I changed the red/black for the actuators to White/Brown to the toggle so you'd get a better understanding.  NOTE: Red + Wire is NOT NEEDED for the toggle - leave it OFF.
 
 
Brown below the black ground connection, white below the empty spade terminal.
 
 
As you can see in this pic, the brown from the toggle switch goes into the slot closest to the silver toggle switch followed by White from the toggle switch. Now going from the far side away from the silver toggle (or right in this pic) is two ground wires (black), one from a good ground or grounding distribution block, other ground goes to the toggle switch left side (with spade terminals facing you).  Next is the power (ONE positive) lead, one coming from the battery or any constant 12v power source (mine comes from power distribution block inside my console), which has the 5amp breaker mounted so NO source of Ground will touch it (I would coat the breaker terminals with liquid tape once I have the wires on it).  Next is the actuator leads, Brown (2 wires) which is on the negative side of the actuator goes into the slot next to power leads, followed by the White (2 wires) which is on the positive side of the actuators.  This way your toggle switch when toggled upward, will raise the bimini as will the silver override toggle switch on the remote unit and so will the UP arrow on your remote keyfob.
 
You can also see in the pic above that black push button (program button) that was referenced above on how to program your remote. You won't have to program your current remote as its already done. If you happen to lose it and get another remote, follow the directions in the programming pdf.


Edited by Wildcat Dude - 02/28/2012 at 5:56pm
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/28/2012 at 4:19pm
Originally posted by Wildcat Dude Wildcat Dude wrote:

Ummm what part of the no cutting did you not understand Wink. Now if you want to cut, go right ahead but its not necessary. Just as I said before, if you're wanting to maintain everything as it was leave it just as is, so if you sell your toon and get an 8ft 6in wide toon, take off the power top and put it on the new wider toon would be no problem. If you cut them you would have to get new center pieces from a metal supplier and put that slight curve in it. Coil up any unused wire and leave it inside the console. The wires are 20ft long.


I ask because the factory people said it HAD to be cut if fitting it to  8ft wide  rails as it was made to fit 8'-6" wide rails.  All you said was "no cutting" in your post & nothing more so I wanted to be sure you meant no cutting of the bows.  Since I now have verification from you that it does NOT need cutting I will place my order for one & have it installed next week (I hope) along with my reclining high back captains chair & pedestal.
Les
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/28/2012 at 4:33pm
I saw that too Les and they both (PS and PWR_ARM) need to remove it, because like Charles said and showed, there is no need for cutting. I think the most important part was if you ever sold your boat and got a wider one, you'd be pretty much out of luck if you cut them. So with that said and for everyone reading this in the future:
 
 DO NOT CUT THE RAILS IF YOU HAVE AN 8' WIDE TOON. THEY WILL WORK FINE AS IS!!


Edited by rickdb1 - 02/28/2012 at 4:39pm
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/28/2012 at 5:02pm
UPDATE: A positive jumper from the remote box to the toggle switch IS NOT NEEDED. It will work just fine as it draws power through the ONE positive wire on the remote box.
 
I'll have Rick redo the diagram colors and I'll take a new pic of the toggle switch wiring.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/28/2012 at 5:49pm
Updated schematic for PWR-ARM with remote control:
 
Larger view: Click here
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/10/2012 at 11:16am
Originally posted by NH Tooner NH Tooner wrote:

This is a shot in the dark but I thought I would try.  I bought a pwr arm for the boat that I'm building.  I cant raise it because of ceiling clearence and cant move it outside. I would like to install 2 of these if I have room. What I'm looking for is the distance that the top sticks out beyond the front of the actuator in the front when open and the distance the top sticks out beyond the rear of the actuator in the rear when open. I know there are not alot of them out there yet so getting measurments might be difficult. With these measurments I could get both mounted right away.
thanks in advance.
 
Originally posted by NH Tooner NH Tooner wrote:

Charles, one other measurment that might be helpful is the distance from the rear actuator to the back of the top in the radar position.
Thanks again.
 
 
Measurements of my setup is from the front of the actuator to the front of the top in the open position is 38 inches
 
From the rear of the actuator to the rear of the top in the open position is 51 inches.
 
From the rear of the actuator to the furthermost point in the rear of the top in the RADAR position is 54 inches.
 
I have it 3 inches beyond the rear of my seats so that most of the fabric (when not in the boot cover) isn't laying on the top of the seats and possibly causing any rub action.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/10/2012 at 11:22am
One thing I've noticed is when using the remote, the top comes up in increments, not a smooth flow as it does with the toggle switch. It did it too initially in the down mode, but then transition to smooth action. I believe (more testing needed) it is because I started up, and stopped and started again as it started up smooth. I'd like comments from others who have one installed to see if you get the same reaction to the remote control. Course when I use the toggle switch, I don't release until I have it where I want it. Got the boot on now and I'm too lazy to take it off (I'm wore out climbing up and down on the toon) LOL
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/10/2012 at 12:29pm
Perfect Charles. Thank You
Dave


2012 Blood, Sweat,and Tears (Home Built)
28 foot tritoon
225 Mercury
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/10/2012 at 4:23pm
Charles:
Am i missing something here?  Is this a 10' top?  38" plus the 51" plus the length of the actuator about 16" (I dont actual measurement) = 105 inches. 
Dave


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/10/2012 at 5:22pm
I didn't have a plumb line, used a straight edge and tried to get close. My actuator is 18 inches long. I did let it stretch out in the full open.  VaGent had called them and said this.
 
Originally posted by VaGent VaGent wrote:

I talked directly to the factory people this morning asked about the overall length as I did not see it advertized & was told the actual length is 9'-8". There are plans in the works for making it longer in the future. It also measures 52" high off the top of whatever the rail height is.
 
So that's 116 inches, so I'm probably off a little on either end, after remeasuring I got 54 inches (near as I can tell) and roughly 35 on the front plus 18 for the actuator. So that's 107 of the 116


Edited by Wildcat Dude - 03/10/2012 at 5:47pm
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/10/2012 at 5:44pm
But it should be around 120. If its a 10'long top
Dave


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/10/2012 at 5:51pm
Les (VaGent) called Schwintek and they said it was 9ft 8inches so that's 116 inches. With my measurements I'm only getting 107-108 inches, don't think I'm off that much from that, other than missing 8 inches, so that's more like 9ft instead of 9.5 ft ain't it.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/10/2012 at 7:10pm
Dave, I was thinking about what Richcraft said and that's true. My yard isn't level, nor is the toon while hooked to the truck. So my measurements are not accurate so use them as a rough guessimate. I did go back out and measure the top and it is 9ft 8inches or 116in total. Can't figure out though where I went wrong at 9 inches difference
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/10/2012 at 7:30pm
Originally posted by Wildcat Dude Wildcat Dude wrote:

Dave, I was thinking about what Richcraft said and that's true. My yard isn't level, nor is the toon while hooked to the truck. So my measurements are not accurate so use them as a rough guessimate. I did go back out and measure the top and it is 9ft 8inches or 116in total. Can't figure out though where I went wrong at 9 inches difference
I shouldnt matter if the boat is level otr not. the front and rear measurments   would be the same anyway. with the measurments you gave at least i can figure out if I can install 2tops. will probably wait to install the second until I can open the first. I dont want them hitting each other.
Dave


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/10/2012 at 7:43pm
let me rephase. the front measurment and the rear measurment would be different if the boat is not level but the two combined would be the same.
Dave


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/12/2012 at 12:35pm
The top is closer to 9.5' when open.  Charles, I had that same problem at first and I found it to be a low battery.  It takes a fair amount of juice to run the top...
Feel free to contact me for help on your project!

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/24/2012 at 12:42pm
I would like to change the switch to a carling rocker type to match my others. Any tell me what I need?  Mom on- off- mon on?  Oh ya, this is for the pwr arm.

Edited by NH Tooner - 03/24/2012 at 2:17pm
Dave


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/24/2012 at 1:08pm
Mon On/off/Mon On will do it. Just don't forget the jumper wires you'll need to add for the carling switch 

Edited by Wildcat Dude - 03/24/2012 at 1:13pm
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/24/2012 at 2:26pm
Just to make sure I have it right. I get a dpdt switch. white and brown on the bottom, black in the center and criss cross (jump the 2 top terms) with the 2 bottom terms.
Dave


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/24/2012 at 4:40pm
ground to one of the center terminals, brown goes to either terminal on the bottom and jump to the the opposite terminal on the top side, do the white wire the same. One one of the bottom terminals and to the opposite side on the upper end. Diagram below shows blue and brown jumpers to represent white and brown jumpers of a DPDT Carling Switch Mon/Off/Mon.
 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/24/2012 at 5:01pm
got it. Thanks
Dave


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/24/2012 at 7:43pm
Something I just thought about, if you are NOT going to use the remote - then do add power to the other side of the ground wire connection on the switch (in empty slot on diagram pic)
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/24/2012 at 7:47pm
Yes I will be using the remote on both tops.
Dave


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